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Canyon Country Field Notes

Low sun breaking through cloud over a weathered rock outcrop

Southeast Utah and the Four Corners

Archaeology, public lands and visiting the canyons of the Four Corners with care

Field notes on the Cedar Mesa and Bears Ears country: what the canyons hold, who looks after them, and the rules and roads a visitor meets on the way in.

Visit with careRead the archaeology

Wind-shaped ripples and grooves in pale sand

Archaeology and rock art

Reading rock art without harming it

Rock art in the dry canyons has outlasted centuries because rain, frost and hands rarely reached it, and for the Hopi Tribe and other Pueblo peoples much of it still carries meaning. Touching, chalking, wetting or tracing a panel speeds its loss, and on public land defacing one is a federal offense.

More recent field notes

A storm front building over a flat, open plain

Public lands and conservation

How Bears Ears is managed today

The land inside and outside the reduced monument is still federal public land, run by the Bureau of Land Management and the Forest Service. The agencies’ own plan for the monument, approved in January 2025 with the five tribes of the Bears Ears Commission, now covers a fraction of the ground it was written for.

An old car with a roof rack parked on bare rock above a valley

Visiting with respect

What it takes to reach the canyons

Past the pavement the Bears Ears country runs on clay, sand and graded gravel: the switchbacks of the Moki Dugway, the Comb Wash road, mesa-top spurs that storms can close within an hour. Most trailheads ask for clearance, a full-size spare, water for a night and a plan, with fuel and help far away.

A pocket compass lying open on an old printed map

Visiting with respect

Permits and day-use rules on Cedar Mesa and the Bears Ears backcountry

The Bureau of Land Management’s Monticello Field Office runs the pass and permit system for the Cedar Mesa and Comb Ridge canyons. The monument boundary around them changed in September 2026, when a July proclamation took effect, and fees or rules may follow.

Before a first trip

What this region asks of a visitor

The canyons of southeast Utah hold one of the densest archaeological records in the United States: dwellings, granaries, rock art, tools and the dry leftovers of meals, some of it two thousand years old and much of it lying where it was left. They are also ancestral ground for the Hopi, Zuni and other Pueblo peoples, and home country for Navajo and Ute families today. A visit here is a visit to someone’s history, and almost everything this publication covers follows from that.

For a first visit, begin with three pieces. Visiting with respect sets out the attitude the place asks for. Tips for visiting cultural sites with respect turns it into practice, from walls and middens to photographs and geotags. Monitoring sites: a citizen’s role explains how the people who know these canyons best help watch over them.

The rest sits in three sections. Visiting with respect covers permits, roads, seasons and conduct. Archaeology and rock art looks at what the dry alcoves preserved and how it is studied. Public lands and conservation follows the monument, the agencies and the tribes, with every decision dated. No page gives the location of any site, and none ever will.

Horses drinking at a shallow lake below bare mountains at dusk

The three sections